Park Orleans Condos - 660 S. Glassell St; Orange CA 92866
Looking to buy or rent in Park Orleans? All Park Orleans condos are owned by individual parties (i.e. there is no central leasing office for rentals). Sales and leases are generally listed in the MLS and will be available online:
To access the Owners' Only Page & Blog for the first time please click here to gain access - and not to worry, your information won't be used for marketing purposes, nor sold to any third parties. Once you have access -- to return to the page in the future, simply click the orange button below ("Click for Owner's Only Page & Blog") or go directly to: www.ParkOrleans.Info
Park Orleans Property Management:
Sharon Rodriguez Team Property Management Phone: 714-639-8484 Fax: 714-639-8585 Email: [email protected] Web: www.TheTeamPropertyManagement.com |
Owners' Page:
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Sales in Park Orleans
Park Orleans Condos |
Lowest Price Paid Last 20+ Years |
Highest Price Paid |
2016 |
2017 |
2018 |
2019 |
2020 |
2021 |
2022 |
2023 |
2024 |
1 BR |
$102K 08/14/01 |
$435K 09/12/23 |
$212.5K - $246K |
$265K 05/26/17 |
$303K 07/30/18 |
$288K 7/30/19 |
$289K10/08/20 |
$355K 6/15/21 |
$425K 4/5/22 |
$435,000 9/12/23 |
$438,000 10/2/24 |
2 BR |
$159K 12/28/12 |
$540K May 2024 |
$350K 06/16/16 (Private Sale) |
$318K 10/31/17 |
$355K 05/30/18 |
N.A. No 2BR Sales 2019 |
$399K Aug 2020 |
$388.5K2/09/21 |
$525K 6/10/22 |
$430,000 5/4/2023 |
$540,000 5/15/24 |
Rents in Park Orleans
Park Orleans Condos Rents |
2015 |
2016 |
2017 |
2018 |
2019 |
2020 |
2021 |
2022 |
2023 |
2024 |
1 BR |
$1,350 |
$1,400 |
$1,650 (asked) |
$1,695 May 2018 |
$1,749 |
$1,749 |
$1,650 Aug 2021 |
$1,950 Feb 2022 |
TBD |
$2,450 Sep 2024 |
2 BR |
$1,700 |
$1,750 |
$1,750 |
$1,995 March 2018 |
$1,850 |
$1,850 |
TBD |
$2,595 Nov 2022 |
$2,595 Mar 2023 |
$2,750 Jun 2024 |
Another Electrical Update 9/7/2024:
I received a call from a tenant yesterday. The AC in their unit had ceased functioning. I asked them to reset the breaker to determine if that was the issue. While the AC unit did come back to life, there was apparently a whiff of smoke emanating from the breaker. I immediately called an electrician - they are coming out on Monday to replace the panel. As noted below, these are Zinsco panels, which are known to have issues (just Google "Zinsco electrical panels"). I would strongly encourage you to replace the panel in your unit if you haven't already done so -- quoted cost was $975.00. I will also be contacting the HOA board and the property management company as we have these panels in common areas as well (there is one in the South laundry room, for example, and likely elsewhere). In addition to having known defects, these original panels are now about 56 years old, so due for replacement.
More electrical info 6/19/2024:
Since I last updated this section (2009) electrical loads have changed dramatically, and for the better! Back then, it wouldn't have been uncommon to have 2 or 3 lights in the living room, 2 in each bedroom, 3 in the kitchen/dining area, and maybe 4 or 5 in the bathroom, for a total of about 15 lights. At 75 Watts each, that equates to 1,125 Watts. Modern LED light bulbs generally use anywhere from 3 to 7 Watts per bulb, so worst case scenario would be about 105 Watts total! And flat screen TVs use a lot less juice as well (about 65-75 Watts) than their older counterparts, as well. Of course anything that produces heat will use more electricity -- a clothing iron, microwave, toaster, curling iron, blow dryer, crock-pot, coffee-maker, etc. and AC units still use a lot of juice. But the good news is that there is generally a lot less load on our electrical systems than there was in the past, which of course also equates to lower electric bills (not accounting for increases in the cost of electricity, of course!).
One other thing to keep in mind is that many of the condos in Park Orleans still have their original Zinsco electrical panels. There have been issues with these panels over the years (just Google "Zinsco electrical panels") so it is best to not overload your electric circuits. And as microwave ovens had not yet been in widespread use when Park Orleans was built, and draw a lot of power (1,000 - 1,200 Watts, for example) you may want to consider having a separate circuit installed for your microwave oven. You may have to repair a little drywall (downstairs units -- upstairs units can be wired through the attic in most cases) but it's cheap insurance against overloading a breaker in your panel. I would also make certain that you have sealed 10-year battery smoke detectors in each bedroom and in the hallway outside of the bedroom(s) as is required by local fire code, just as an additional layer of protection for both you and your adjoining neighbors. As I'm not an electrician, and not licensed to provide electrical advice, I would recommend speaking with a licensed electrician about your specific situation.
From 2009:
The increased electrical demands of modern society are starting to take their toll on my 40 Amp electrical service. I had the electrician run a dedicated circuit for the microwave oven today, which will help but likely will not solve the problem entirely. There are currently 2 LCD TVs, a 220VAC A/C unit, a microwave, a small PC, toaster, iron, 4 lights in the kitchen, and 4 lights in the bath, and a couple of lights in each bedroom all competing for electricity. The electrician suggested that if a new main circuit was run (with larger copper wire, vs the aluminum wire that is currently being used) that we may be able to increase to a 50 or 60 Amp service. It appears that each conduit running from the main panel each houses 2 main circuits, one for the downstairs unit and one for the upstairs unit. The junction box to pull wire appears to be in the downstairs units below the main panel. It doesn't make sense to try and pull a single copper wire through the conduit, so I will try and arrange with my downstairs neighbor to give us access and perhaps pay for at least the cost of the additional wire. The benefit to my neighbor is that they can enjoy increased electrical capacity as well, should they choose to do so. The electrician that I'm using is Bright Electric (click on "Tradespersons" tab above for contact information). Note: I never did pursue this upgrade.
I received a call from a tenant yesterday. The AC in their unit had ceased functioning. I asked them to reset the breaker to determine if that was the issue. While the AC unit did come back to life, there was apparently a whiff of smoke emanating from the breaker. I immediately called an electrician - they are coming out on Monday to replace the panel. As noted below, these are Zinsco panels, which are known to have issues (just Google "Zinsco electrical panels"). I would strongly encourage you to replace the panel in your unit if you haven't already done so -- quoted cost was $975.00. I will also be contacting the HOA board and the property management company as we have these panels in common areas as well (there is one in the South laundry room, for example, and likely elsewhere). In addition to having known defects, these original panels are now about 56 years old, so due for replacement.
More electrical info 6/19/2024:
Since I last updated this section (2009) electrical loads have changed dramatically, and for the better! Back then, it wouldn't have been uncommon to have 2 or 3 lights in the living room, 2 in each bedroom, 3 in the kitchen/dining area, and maybe 4 or 5 in the bathroom, for a total of about 15 lights. At 75 Watts each, that equates to 1,125 Watts. Modern LED light bulbs generally use anywhere from 3 to 7 Watts per bulb, so worst case scenario would be about 105 Watts total! And flat screen TVs use a lot less juice as well (about 65-75 Watts) than their older counterparts, as well. Of course anything that produces heat will use more electricity -- a clothing iron, microwave, toaster, curling iron, blow dryer, crock-pot, coffee-maker, etc. and AC units still use a lot of juice. But the good news is that there is generally a lot less load on our electrical systems than there was in the past, which of course also equates to lower electric bills (not accounting for increases in the cost of electricity, of course!).
One other thing to keep in mind is that many of the condos in Park Orleans still have their original Zinsco electrical panels. There have been issues with these panels over the years (just Google "Zinsco electrical panels") so it is best to not overload your electric circuits. And as microwave ovens had not yet been in widespread use when Park Orleans was built, and draw a lot of power (1,000 - 1,200 Watts, for example) you may want to consider having a separate circuit installed for your microwave oven. You may have to repair a little drywall (downstairs units -- upstairs units can be wired through the attic in most cases) but it's cheap insurance against overloading a breaker in your panel. I would also make certain that you have sealed 10-year battery smoke detectors in each bedroom and in the hallway outside of the bedroom(s) as is required by local fire code, just as an additional layer of protection for both you and your adjoining neighbors. As I'm not an electrician, and not licensed to provide electrical advice, I would recommend speaking with a licensed electrician about your specific situation.
From 2009:
The increased electrical demands of modern society are starting to take their toll on my 40 Amp electrical service. I had the electrician run a dedicated circuit for the microwave oven today, which will help but likely will not solve the problem entirely. There are currently 2 LCD TVs, a 220VAC A/C unit, a microwave, a small PC, toaster, iron, 4 lights in the kitchen, and 4 lights in the bath, and a couple of lights in each bedroom all competing for electricity. The electrician suggested that if a new main circuit was run (with larger copper wire, vs the aluminum wire that is currently being used) that we may be able to increase to a 50 or 60 Amp service. It appears that each conduit running from the main panel each houses 2 main circuits, one for the downstairs unit and one for the upstairs unit. The junction box to pull wire appears to be in the downstairs units below the main panel. It doesn't make sense to try and pull a single copper wire through the conduit, so I will try and arrange with my downstairs neighbor to give us access and perhaps pay for at least the cost of the additional wire. The benefit to my neighbor is that they can enjoy increased electrical capacity as well, should they choose to do so. The electrician that I'm using is Bright Electric (click on "Tradespersons" tab above for contact information). Note: I never did pursue this upgrade.
Garage Door Openers - Battery Backup - UPDATE (12/23/2019) - Update: As of July 1, 2019 or thereabouts, any new garage door openers installed must have a battery backup in the event of a power failure. While this was invoked due to people getting trapped in their garages during recent wildfires (although they could have pulled the emergency release cable and pulled the door up manually, if they were able), it would reduce the chance that you would be unable to access your car from the outside at Park Orleans in the event of a power outage. But know that you'll have to replace the battery pack every several years.
In 2013 I had a new garage door opener installed, only to find that the old garage door remotes (the mini keychain type -- perfect for Park Orleans) would not work with the new opener, so I purchased some new mini keychain type remotes from Home Depot. UPDATED!: The new Chamberlain 3-button mini remotes (model #956EV) will work with the majority of garage door openers from 1993 to present (the prior models had a cutoff of 2005). The manufacture date of your opener can be found on the housing of the unit. Chamberlain is the brand of the remote that should work with most popular garage door openers -- cost is approximately $35.00 per remote. Click here for info: Chamberlain 956EV mini 3-button remote.
In 2013 I had a new garage door opener installed, only to find that the old garage door remotes (the mini keychain type -- perfect for Park Orleans) would not work with the new opener, so I purchased some new mini keychain type remotes from Home Depot. UPDATED!: The new Chamberlain 3-button mini remotes (model #956EV) will work with the majority of garage door openers from 1993 to present (the prior models had a cutoff of 2005). The manufacture date of your opener can be found on the housing of the unit. Chamberlain is the brand of the remote that should work with most popular garage door openers -- cost is approximately $35.00 per remote. Click here for info: Chamberlain 956EV mini 3-button remote.
New Smoke Detectors (6/7/2015) - I'm a little remiss in not posting this earlier, but if you haven't already, you should replace your smoke detectors with the newer, sealed units. Unfortunately, they are a little more costly (about $15-$20 vs $5 for the non-sealed models). The sealed units have a 10-year battery life, and a "hush" feature to turn them off temporarily if you burn something on the stove or have some other known smoke situation. They will turn off for about 5 minutes and then reset themselves -- vs taking out the batteries and forgetting to replace them, which is very common. As a fire in your condo may also impact/endanger your neighbors in adjoining units, please at least make certain that your current smoke detectors have working batteries in them! And better yet, install the newer sealed units -- you'll save not only the time but also the cost of replacing the batteries every year (and those 9V batteries are expensive!). Orange fire code requires a smoke detector in each bedroom, as well as a detector in the hallway leading to a bedroom. So for 1-bedroom condos, a minimum of 2 smoke detectors, and for 2 bedroom condos, at least 3 smoke detectors (you can use a combination smoke/carbon monoxide detector in the hallway -- carbon monoxide detectors are required in the hallway, but not in each bedroom). And while you're at it, with a sharpie or a label put the date that you purchased/installed the smoke detector, as 10 years is a long time to remember when you installed it!
Central Heat and A/C (11/5/2013) - I thought about installing central heat and A/C in an upper 2BR unit a few years ago (with HOA approval, of course!) but the cost and logistics were too much (routing gas and electric lines into the attic space, building a platform, running ducts, etc.) but I haven't completely given up on the idea.
Mini-Splits:
Update - 6/19/2024:
I had a mini-split installed in another property (not Park Orleans) about 6 years ago. It was an LG 12,000 BTU unit. It worked well (for both heating and AC), utilized very little electricity, and was ridiculously quiet both inside and outside. But then it quit working. The first "factory authorized" tech broke the unit further. The 2nd tech couldn't come out for 30 days. Then indicated that it was a bad circuit board that was no longer manufactured (and the service call was $285). My regular AC guy won't work on them as repairs generally require a long wait on hold with the manufacturer's tech support team, and clients don't like to pay for that time (see my $285 service call -- AC tech was on hold for about 2 hours while troubleshooting).
But prices have also come down for the units to where they are competitively priced (at least for some brands) with thru-wall units. Most AC techs are happy to install new systems, they just won't work on existing systems. So my takeaway is to buy the least expensive properly sized system for your space (for a single zone system 12,000 - 18,000 BTUs) and then treat it like a thru-the-wall AC system (which are also difficult to get serviced -- most are now considered throwaway). While the initial cost to install your first mini split will be higher (a copper line-set will have to be installed, along with modifications to your electrical, and possibly some drywall repair, along with sealing up the opening where your thru-wall used to be), subsequent swap out costs will be much lower, as the electrical and line-set can be reused for the next system. Hopefully it will last for many years (as some do!). But if not, don't bother with trying to get it serviced -- simply purchase another and have it installed. My last swap out took the AC tech about 3 hours.
Note also that most have 5-12 Year warranties if the units are provided and installed by a licensed HVAC tech. Some manufacturers will not honor their warranty if the units are purchased online directly, and then installed by a licensed HVAC tech -- so read the fine print. And you will pay handsomely if you don't do your homework. My last install (swap-out) was $1,800 for a Fujitsu unit and labor. The units sold for about $1,300 online (but I had the HVAC tech purchase it via their supplier's warehouse). Another authorized dealer of a competing Japanese brand quoted me $5,700 for the same configuration and installation, with a 12-year bumper-to-bumper warranty (my unit has a 10 year parts only warranty). While there is definitely value in the more robust warranty, I could buy 2 spare Fujitsu units for the same price and still have a few $$ left over for installation. Goodman (a large HVAC manufacturer) 18,000 BTU units were recently on sale for about $700 (about the price of 14K BTU thru-wall unit) -- Not a bad choice if plan on replacing it should it fail. So do what works best for you!
From 11/5/2013:
I've been looking into multi-zone mini split ductless systems as of late. They are made by a variety of manufacturers (Fujitsu, Mitsubishi, Toshiba, Pioneer, and LG for example). Especially attractive is the flush-mount ceiling cassette option, which would put a heating/cooling system in the main living area, and one in each of the bedrooms (and without taking up any space!) - each with their own thermostat. Each unit installs in the ceiling, and the coolant and electric lines are run back to the compressor (I would install where the current through-wall A/C unit is installed). You could remove the current A/C sleeve, and the wall furnace too, as these units provide both heat and cooling. And they are also extremely quiet, both inside/out -- much quieter than a thru-wall AC system for both you and your neighbors! While they aren't inexpensive, installation is simpler and would be less invasive. (Click here for sample systems).
Mini-Splits:
Update - 6/19/2024:
I had a mini-split installed in another property (not Park Orleans) about 6 years ago. It was an LG 12,000 BTU unit. It worked well (for both heating and AC), utilized very little electricity, and was ridiculously quiet both inside and outside. But then it quit working. The first "factory authorized" tech broke the unit further. The 2nd tech couldn't come out for 30 days. Then indicated that it was a bad circuit board that was no longer manufactured (and the service call was $285). My regular AC guy won't work on them as repairs generally require a long wait on hold with the manufacturer's tech support team, and clients don't like to pay for that time (see my $285 service call -- AC tech was on hold for about 2 hours while troubleshooting).
But prices have also come down for the units to where they are competitively priced (at least for some brands) with thru-wall units. Most AC techs are happy to install new systems, they just won't work on existing systems. So my takeaway is to buy the least expensive properly sized system for your space (for a single zone system 12,000 - 18,000 BTUs) and then treat it like a thru-the-wall AC system (which are also difficult to get serviced -- most are now considered throwaway). While the initial cost to install your first mini split will be higher (a copper line-set will have to be installed, along with modifications to your electrical, and possibly some drywall repair, along with sealing up the opening where your thru-wall used to be), subsequent swap out costs will be much lower, as the electrical and line-set can be reused for the next system. Hopefully it will last for many years (as some do!). But if not, don't bother with trying to get it serviced -- simply purchase another and have it installed. My last swap out took the AC tech about 3 hours.
Note also that most have 5-12 Year warranties if the units are provided and installed by a licensed HVAC tech. Some manufacturers will not honor their warranty if the units are purchased online directly, and then installed by a licensed HVAC tech -- so read the fine print. And you will pay handsomely if you don't do your homework. My last install (swap-out) was $1,800 for a Fujitsu unit and labor. The units sold for about $1,300 online (but I had the HVAC tech purchase it via their supplier's warehouse). Another authorized dealer of a competing Japanese brand quoted me $5,700 for the same configuration and installation, with a 12-year bumper-to-bumper warranty (my unit has a 10 year parts only warranty). While there is definitely value in the more robust warranty, I could buy 2 spare Fujitsu units for the same price and still have a few $$ left over for installation. Goodman (a large HVAC manufacturer) 18,000 BTU units were recently on sale for about $700 (about the price of 14K BTU thru-wall unit) -- Not a bad choice if plan on replacing it should it fail. So do what works best for you!
From 11/5/2013:
I've been looking into multi-zone mini split ductless systems as of late. They are made by a variety of manufacturers (Fujitsu, Mitsubishi, Toshiba, Pioneer, and LG for example). Especially attractive is the flush-mount ceiling cassette option, which would put a heating/cooling system in the main living area, and one in each of the bedrooms (and without taking up any space!) - each with their own thermostat. Each unit installs in the ceiling, and the coolant and electric lines are run back to the compressor (I would install where the current through-wall A/C unit is installed). You could remove the current A/C sleeve, and the wall furnace too, as these units provide both heat and cooling. And they are also extremely quiet, both inside/out -- much quieter than a thru-wall AC system for both you and your neighbors! While they aren't inexpensive, installation is simpler and would be less invasive. (Click here for sample systems).
Dishwasher Issues (7/7/2011) - My dishwasher recently started doing a horrible job of washing the dishes -- lots of white film on the glasses and silverware. After a little internet searching I discovered that the issue was that dish-washing detergent now contains no phosphates (apparently an environmental issue). The solution seems to be getting rid of the old Cascade powdered detergent and replacing it with some of the new (and more expensive!) individual tabs. My home warranty rep indicated that they have been flooded with calls regarding this issue. She suggested trying "Quantum Finish" tablets. I couldn't find them at Stater Brothers, but did find "Finish Powerball" tablets. They seemed to work just fine. I also picked up a package of "Cascade ActionPacs" so I'll give them a try as well (update: they work great, too). A teaspoon of "Lemi Shine" added to the detergent seems to work well, too.
Carbon Monoxide Detectors (06/02/2011) - Carbon monoxide detectors are now required in all residential units -- between $20-$30 at Home Depot, Ace, or other local hardware store. I've been purchasing the Kidde NiteHawk as it has a small digital readout that gives you the current carbon monoxide level. They have a 7-year lifespan (sensor) -- batteries should be replaced annually or thereabouts. Click here for a copy of the owner's manual and additional information. Also, be aware that if you are considering refinancing to take advantage of the historically low interest rates, many appraisers will now check for the presence of a carbon monoxide detector and/or smoke detectors. If they are not in place, and the appraiser has to make another visit to verify that they are installed, they will charge up to an additional $150 for the secondary inspection!
Dual Pane Windows - 8/01/2013 I just had the vinyl windows in a 2BR upper condo replaced by:
First Class Vinyl Windows
Phone: (714) 643-9575
www.1stclasswindows.com
They are local (Garden Grove) and he would be glad to stop by and give you a free estimate -- about $2,000 including installation (and lifetime warranty for the original purchaser). They also gave me an estimate for a 1BR downstairs condo (with a new sliding door off of the bedroom) of $1,790.
(10/03/2009) - From a resident of Park Orleans (emailed to me): "I had my windows done about 1 month ago to take advantage of the tax credit on energy efficient windows. I searched for the best deal and found it at:
www.anewviewwindows.com
Not only was it the cheapest, they were the nicest windows out there. They did an excellent job retro-fitting and were very fast. Ask for Eric. They are local and family owned and I highly recommend them to anyone looking."
First Class Vinyl Windows
Phone: (714) 643-9575
www.1stclasswindows.com
They are local (Garden Grove) and he would be glad to stop by and give you a free estimate -- about $2,000 including installation (and lifetime warranty for the original purchaser). They also gave me an estimate for a 1BR downstairs condo (with a new sliding door off of the bedroom) of $1,790.
(10/03/2009) - From a resident of Park Orleans (emailed to me): "I had my windows done about 1 month ago to take advantage of the tax credit on energy efficient windows. I searched for the best deal and found it at:
www.anewviewwindows.com
Not only was it the cheapest, they were the nicest windows out there. They did an excellent job retro-fitting and were very fast. Ask for Eric. They are local and family owned and I highly recommend them to anyone looking."
A/C Units - Updated (8/10/2012) Just replaced a 4-year old Fridigaire FAH146S2 with a Frigidaire FRA144HT2 (essentially the newer model of the FAH146S2). The bad news: It was only 4 years old! The good news: It has a 5-year warranty on the internal components (I have to pay for labor) so I brought it to D&J Appliance Repairs in La Habra and they installed a new compressor - (labor cost: $80.00). The new unit is also more expensive - about $575+shipping from Amazon.com or ABT (couldn't find it for sale locally). The Frigidaire FRA144HT2 is an excellent choice as it fits very neatly in the existing sleeve (unit is 14.5"High X 24"Wide X 19"Deep), has a capacity of 14,000 BTUs, and is available in 220 VAC. A competent handyman can install for about $75 if you do not want to do it yourself. Need a handyman? Click on the "Tradespersons" tab above and scroll down to "Handyman".
Main Electric Panel Switches - I've had to replace the main shutoff switch (in the exterior electrical panel) for two units in the past few months. If you are having any issues with the electricity in your home, you may want to have a licensed electrician take a look at it. Mine were 40 amp Pushmatics (about $50.00 at Home Depot) but your electrician can tell you for sure. Here is a photo of the breaker installed.
Wall Furnace - When you repaint the interior of your home, the older wall furnace covers can seem sort of dreary. As an alternative to replacing the whole furnace you might consider, as one of the neighbors shared with me, having the cover powder-coated in whatever color you like. They paid about $85.00. There is at least one company that performs this service up on North Batavia. While you are at it, you should consider replacing your old mercury thermostat with a digital version - the Honeywell RTH110B works well. They are very inexpensive and will control the heat much more evenly (they look more up-to-date, too!).
Bathtub and Surround - If you still have your original bath tub and surround, or if your bathtub is simply looking worn, consider having it re-glazed (actually a two-part epoxy). I've had 10+ tubs done in the past few years and they come out looking fantastic! It costs about $350 and is well worth it. The company that I generally use is listed under the "Vendors" tab at the top of the website, near the top under heading "Bathtub Refinishing".
Exterior Paint Colors - If you need to touch up your front door, A/C. housing, or any other area of your exterior, here are the paint colors from The Colonial Group - exterior paint colors (As of 12/2019 -- New colors!).
Cabinet Knobs - If you are replacing the knobs on the original cabinets in your Park Orleans home, and you are using the contractor packs of knobs available from Home Depot, you may want to pick up some extra #8-32 X 1 3/4" machine screws as the cabinet doors are slightly thicker than the screws in the packs will accommodate.
New Blinds or Window Coverings - If you are purchasing new blinds or other window coverings from your local home improvement store, I would strongly recommend substituting coarse thread drywall screws for the screws that come with the blinds - 1" or 1-1/4" should do. Drywall screws have a better grip with your screwdriver and are much easier to use -- keep the box of screws handy for hanging photos and other minor repairs -- they are extremely useful!
Exterior Paint Colors - If you need to touch up your front door, A/C. housing, or any other area of your exterior, here are the paint colors from The Colonial Group - exterior paint colors (As of 12/2019 -- New colors!).
Cabinet Knobs - If you are replacing the knobs on the original cabinets in your Park Orleans home, and you are using the contractor packs of knobs available from Home Depot, you may want to pick up some extra #8-32 X 1 3/4" machine screws as the cabinet doors are slightly thicker than the screws in the packs will accommodate.
New Blinds or Window Coverings - If you are purchasing new blinds or other window coverings from your local home improvement store, I would strongly recommend substituting coarse thread drywall screws for the screws that come with the blinds - 1" or 1-1/4" should do. Drywall screws have a better grip with your screwdriver and are much easier to use -- keep the box of screws handy for hanging photos and other minor repairs -- they are extremely useful!